mwnch

An easy method for poaching a whole fish such as a salmon or trout given the correct equipment. You’ll need a pan big enough to accommodate the fish without touching the sides. A fish kettle (pictured) is perfect.

Place the fish in the pan.

Add cold water to cover the fish and add whatever stock ingredients you have to hand or prefer. Any of: Onion (quartered), parsley stalks, chopped carrots, bay leaves, celery, whole peppercorns. Don’t add salt.

Cover & place the pan and its contents over heat.

Bring to the boil then immediately remove from the heat.

Leave covered and allow to cool to almost cold - the fish will be cooked.

The sea-trout (locally known as sewin) from the River Tywi between Carmarthen and Llandeilo in West Wales is the tastiest most flavoursome ‘pink’ fleshed fish that I’ve tasted. I’ve never been a fan of shop or restaurant bought salmon and I think that’s because of been spoilt by the sewin my mother cooked for us when I was younger.

I’ve tried various methods of preparing it, but simply poached in it’s own simple stock of carrot, onion, pepper corns and herbs seems the easiest, tastiest and most fool-proof option.

A long thin fish kettle is best: place the fish along with a accompaniment of a large chopped carrot, a quarter onion, a sprinkle of pepper corns and some parsley stalks, sage or rosemary in the kettle, then fill with cold water. From here it’s easy, place the kettle on heat, bring the water to the boil, leave on the heat for 1 minute, then remove and allow to cool to tepid - the fish will be cooked. Remove the skin then the fish from the bone and Serve!

Alternatively, as in the picture, oven bake in foil. Garnish the fish with a selection of fresh herbs and lemon slices placed in the stomach cavity, add a few blobs of butter and seasoning then give 20 minutes for a small fish such as the one pictured or 30 minutes or so for a large specimen in an oven heated to 180C.

I like to accompany with a cauliflower puree. Roasted cherry tomatoes also go well and provide a great contrast.

Of all the cooks I’ve written about in this series, Mitch Tonks is the only one that I can claim to have personally insulted.

We ate in one of his restaurants two or three years back when they were running a Good Food evening (which was great value 6 or 7 courses and as much as you could drink). I made some quip about there being no seats (it was busy & there was a lot to drink) which embarrassed Mitch and lead to us being ushered to the back of the restaurant where there was a table out of harms ways. I sure it didn’t even register, but sorry Mitch.

I’ve eaten in his Bristol restaurant a couple of times and used the Fish Works fish shops both in Bristol and Bath on a number of occasions. I actually had my only case of seafood poisoning from a batch of mussels from the shop in Bath…but don’t let me put you off - I blame myself for not checking them thoroughly enough (or perhaps it was revenge for the restaurant episode).

Anyway, having set the scene so eloquently through embarrassment and food poisoning (!) I must admit that I really like Mitch’s food and recipes. Great produce, simply cooked. In the world of fish Rick Stein is the king of the kitchen, with his seemingly encyclopaedic knowledge of classical cookery, farflung travels and giddy passion and Mitch is perhaps the Prince-in-waiting with a more modern, simpler, lighter touch!

Using everyday seasoning, this is a great, quick way to eat fish when in a rush.

Eat with salad and some rice.

With only two ingredients this recipe is a great combination of the sea (haddock) and land (cheese).

If you can get you hands on some, use Y-Fenni cheese, a great Welsh cheddar blended with ale and mustard seed, it complements the smoky fish perfectly.

If you can’t get Y-Fenni substitute it by spreading the fish with a coarse grained mustard before covering with a mature cheddar.

I love fish with spinach and this is a great opportunity to bring together that heavenly combination! So serve with some mashed potato (champ if you fancy) and quickly blanched spinach with a hint of nutmeg.