The Medieval Welsh Diet

This blog is written and published from Wales and I have a passion for history, so what Gerald of Wales has to say on the Welsh diet is of interest:

‘Almost all the people live upon the produce of their herds, with oats, milk, cheese, and butter; eating flesh in larger proportions than bread.’

The Description of Wales by Geraldus Cambrensis

 

I’m not sure that things have changed too much.

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Bath Ales

A friend of mine recommended Bath Ales, citing gem as his current favourite tipple and I must admit I’m glad of the recommendation.

bath ales

Cultured, well flavoured ales, the two I’ve tried, gem (an amber ale) and wild hare (an organic pale ale) slipped down very easily and are a pleasure both on the nose, the eye and of course most importantly the taste-buds. These aren’t traditional beers, they aren’t heavy with hops, yeast and / or malt, but are more cultured, more modern and more subtle in their charms … delicious. Neither do they skimp on alcohol content weighing in at 4.8% and 5% respectively - pretty grown up serious stuff.

bath ales hare bottle topOne thing that really sticks out for me is the packaging. I’ve always been a believer in the adage that we eat (& drink) with our eyes first and these bottles really are appealing to the eye. Even the bottle top is a cracker…

I notice on the website that they sell 36 pint beer boxes by mail order which really are a tempter … now if only I can find an excuse.

Recommended.

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Mitch Tonks (Fishworks)

Of all the cooks I’ve written about in this series, Mitch Tonks is the only one that I can claim to have personally insulted.


We ate in one of his restaurants two or three years back when they were running a Good Food evening (which was great value 6 or 7 courses and as much as you could drink). I made some quip about there being no seats (it was busy & there was a lot to drink) which embarrassed Mitch and lead to us being ushered to the back of the restaurant where there was a table out of harms ways. I sure it didn’t even register, but sorry Mitch.

I’ve eaten in his Bristol restaurant a couple of times and used the Fish Works fish shops both in Bristol and Bath on a number of occasions. I actually had my only case of seafood poisoning from a batch of mussels from the shop in Bath…but don’t let me put you off - I blame myself for not checking them thoroughly enough (or perhaps it was revenge for the restaurant episode).

Anyway, having set the scene so eloquently through embarrassment and food poisoning (!) I must admit that I really like Mitch’s food and recipes. Great produce, simply cooked. In the world of fish Rick Stein is the king of the kitchen, with his seemingly encyclopaedic knowledge of classical cookery, farflung travels and giddy passion and Mitch is perhaps the Prince-in-waiting with a more modern, simpler, lighter touch!

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Roast Beef Cooking Times

Based upon what I’ve read in various sources from Elizabeth David to the Sunday Times, I’ve adopted a fast then slow method of cooking meat.

Select a first class secondary (to use the Elizabeth David term) joint of meat - topside, sirloin or upper fillet, weighing around 1 kilogram.

Brush the meat with olive oil and stand on a grid above a roasting dish.

These times provide medium-well cooked meat.

  • Heat the oven to Gas Mark 7, 420F, 220C and cook for 10 minutes.
  • Then reduce to Gas Mark 5, 375F, 190C and finish cooking for 50 minutes.

Adjust times proportionately for larger pieces of meat.

Allow to stand before carving and serving - provided that you’ve bought good quality meat, you’ll not get a more succulent joint.

No guarantees that this will work for you - it works for me - please always apply discretion when cooking meat.

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Sam and Sam Clark (Moro)

Of all the cooks I’ve considered as part of this series, husband and wife team Sam and Sam Clark have perhaps opened my eyes to new tastes and flavours more than any others. I first developed an interest in Spanish cooking a number of years ago when my wife and I spent a number of holidays in the sun and dust of Andalusia. This led to a frosty Christmas purchase of the first Moro book (actually as a gift for my Mother that soon found its way back to me) and a transcription of recipes to well travelled pieces of paper that enabled me to make Tortilla and Gazpacho under a roasting Andalusian sun on subsequent trips without dragging a cookery book to Spain.

Harissa and bravas sauce are now never far from my thoughts, a dull chicken or piece of lamb soon spiced up and filled with Mediterranean sunshine and North African fire.

The Clark’s offer classic exotic (to the average British palate) recipes - for the uninitiated a great place to start exploring theircusine is the Guardian Unlimited article from 2004 that heralded the release of the Casa Moro book. Their cookery is that “of Spain and the Muslim Mediterranean” and their three books The Moro Cookbook, Casa Moro: The Second Cookbook and Moro East track a tasty, easy course through the Med and its abundant table. For further web based reading, the diversity of these rich and varied culinary traditions is well demonstrated by the vegan recipes and ingredients given in Samatha Clarks Vegan Inspirations article on the BBC website.

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Salsa Verde

The Italian classic, which in my house serves as a sauce for fish or white meat as well as a snacking accompaniment to crusty bread, crackers, crisps … pretty much anything.

Plenty of parsley is essential so get one of those bunch of flowers sized bunches from a green-grocer rather than those puny supermarket plastic wrapped packs.


Read on »

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The Two Fat Ladies

It is through the two fat ladies that I can begin to understand the British Empire. So few people with plumy accents and indomitable attitudes ruling over so many. With ladies like Clarissa Dickson Wright and Jennifer Paterson you can start to see how they did it - all that fox-hunting, gin and those stiff upper lips.

Their food, whilst old fashioned, bourgeoisie and liable to fur up your arteries and steeply reduce your life-expectancy has a solidity and properness about it that’s undeniably attractive…For example, one of the few recipes available on the ‘net is the high tea (how long is it since you heard that term?) dish of Rigo Jancsi Chocolate Slices = jam, sugar, cream and chocolate and to hell with the calories.

The story of the Ladies on the web is one of desolation and moved or missing pages which is a shame - the BBC Food Site seems to have removed all recipes except for a rather forlorn one for Potted turkey (which I won’t even link to in disgust at the BBC) and the food network message board and dedicated page is long gone. To even up this absence, I’ll research some Two Fat Ladies Inspired recipes and bring them to mwnch soon … watch this space!

In the meantime, you might like to peruse some of the Ladies books.

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a new addiction…

Over the past few months I’ve become aware of a potential health threat that I may be suffering from. I may even have discovered a new disease for the 21st century….

I think I could be suffering from curry addiction

Friday night is curry night which placates the urge, the urge that builds in my subconscious over the weekend, until it becomes a pang usually around the time I’m driving to work on a Monday morning. This pang grows over the course of the week in intensity to leave me day-dreaming of jalfrezi and keema nan by Thursday lunchtime … then at long last comes Friday night and my weekly fix…

Can you become addicted to curry?

Should I consider going cold turkey? (Turkey curry … yumm!)

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Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Despite recent strange diversions Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is one of the pillars upon which my culinary world is built.

I loved his early adventures in cooking rooks and placentas on Cook on the Wild Side and TV Dinners, River Cottage as a concept is close to my idea of heaven and his recent exploration of sustainable fish stocks is admirable and thought provoking.

Of all of Hugh’s work, his thoughtful writing on animal husbandry, care and the symbiotic relationship between people and domesticated livestock has informed and reinforced my farmer’s son attitude to this thorny subject.

The River Cottage website forum is a good source of gossip and like-minded individuals.

You can find a number of Hugh recipes for free on the BBC website including a favourite of mine pumpkin risotto. Hugh’s own site River Cottage also has some great seasonal recipes. Finally, Guardian Unlimited has a very attractive selection of writing and recipes, including a very topical one given my new blackberry based theme on mwnch, an article on Black beauties.

Then of course, there are his books, all of which I thoroughly recommend.

Just one piece of advice, stop hanging around in the play-ground with that bully Ramsay and his blubbery lipped side-kick Oliver and find some nice, sensitive friends of your own.

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I love Cooks!

Whilst I don’t think I’ve ever followed a recipe to every ingredient, weight, measure or direction, like everyone with a love of food I seek inspiration from books, TV and the ‘net.

In homage, respect and sometimes ridicule of our kitchen messiahs I’m going to write a series of posts on cooks, chefs and other kitchen botherers … keep reading …

Coming soon ~ Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall …

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