Keith Floyd

Of all the cooks that I’m writing about in this series, Keith Floyd is probably the one whose televised work has had a greater influence on me than his written work. In fact it wasn’t until I came to write this piece on Keith, that I even gave his books much thought.

It’s his joie-de-vivre that makes him such a charismatic figure and TV conveys that far better than print. There can’t be many red-blooded drinkers & cookers who don’t secretly desire trading places with Keith, knocking together some frankly knocked together food in a sultry corner of Italy whilst keeping cool with copious quantities of Vino Verde. Or frying reindeer hocks in butter in some dusky Scandanavian tundra whilst pickling oneself with a vat of vodka.

After all that his books are bound to pale by comparison.

Another thing about Keith which one must admit is do we really care about his recipes ? Is it really Keith we turn to for a Chicken Korma recipe and jugged or Royal Hare Stew, blood and all is perhaps a minority pursuit. His best stuff such as Irene Cleaves’ southern fried chicken or Evander Preston’s crabmeat fritters are really someone elses. Surely Elizabeth David is a better source for let’s say Southern French recipes and we’ll leave North African food to Sam and Sam Clark… let’s make a resolution to enjoy Keith for what he’s best at - making damn fine, entertaining TV prog’s with backing music by the Stranglers!

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Rick Stein on May 4th, 2008
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